Surfing... Attempt #1

So here's the deal! I got out of my only class Tuesday at 9am and drove with my friend Dan over to Raglan beach to check out the west coast swell for the first time.

Just for those who don't know: Raglan Beach is well known to surfers all over the world. The only obstacle for groms is actually making all the way out here to New Zealand. Lucky me, its only a 35 min drive from my university! Not to mention, I am good friends with some kids that purchased a van, making this gnarley beach a convenience to get to! If I wasn't able to van-it out, there is a city bus that runs back in forth for less than $5 a way. There are multiple beach breaks in this town. The one of which we tried out Wainui Beach, which is known to be popular to all sorts of surfers, dragging in anywhere from 2-8ft swell on most days, and less rocks than the other beaches.

The water wasn't as cold as I had imagined, especially during the peak of their winter. I surfed barefoot with merely a 3/2 suit and was fine for about an hour. I was really disappointed though, because the waves were shitty. I hate saying this, but they were terrible. Very inconsistent, westward winds (best for raglan: south east), and lacking any wave length whatsover. Well, lets just say it was a white wash day! I stayed in until my patience was drained. When I got out I realized that the ocean ate my rainbow sandals. Lovely, just lovely. haha. But anyways we dried off and dan tried starting the van while I attempted to gain feeling in my toes. Van wouldn't even budgeeee.. battery was completely dead. A local Maori lent us a hand and helped us push the vehicle and toaster it (you know how they got it going in Little Miss Sunshine, where the family pushed it and quickly turned it on in third gear) down the hill. And after 3 attempts it WORKED! thank gosh. We then drove along the coast and quickly stopped to check the swell at Manu Bay! Rumor has it that Manu Bay has the longest, most accessible and consistent left-hand break in the world. This beach was much more rugged and the waves broke on a constant left and bent around this coastal peninsula. It was one of the coolest things I have ever seen.

I really don't want to state any more negative aspects of this trip, but all in all, let me just say that the van stalled out completely. Engine shutting off, WHILE DRIVING, a good 8 times the rest of the day, one of which we were in the middle of nowhere, checking out Bridal Veil Falls, just south of Raglan. Eventually, after it seemed like hundreds of van pushing and pulling, we made it to a local mechanic who figured out Veronica's (the van) problem. People here are so nice here! We had a man see us struggling, pull over on the side and lend us a hand, a farmer run back to his house for a set of jumper cables, and a construction worker stop what he was doing and tow us by chain to the mechanic 3k's up a hill. Man were we lucky..

REGARDLESS of our obstacles, Raglan was beautiful!! The Bridal Veil Falls was unlike anything I had seen before, thick water rushing down and gathering in a narrow gully (just like the movies). And again, these pictures I have barely show what they look like in actuality. It is unreal! Really! Not trying to be cheesy!

Well we camped the night at this lookout, and woke up with a glass of hot tea that we warmed up on the camp stove (that came with the van) and the sunrise over the mountain. We explored around Whale Bay and then back around the city again, stopping once to make some scrambled eggs and toast. After, we got Veronica on the way again down highway 29, back to Hamilton and our university. After all, it was Wednesday, and I did have a tutorial at 4pm! haha

But we made it back safe and sound and I talked to Kristi and Dylan and looks like we are headed back out there for the weekend!! And the waves are supposed to pick up as well! :)

Until later,
JiLL